A bike.
yeah theyre nice, what condition u think like 8-10k would get u (manual, RWD & AWD).I have an 08 G37S, been pretty good to me for 6 years. Tires, brakes and rotors are pretty pricey over time but other than that the regular maintenance isn't as extensive as a german car and it still has about 330hp and 270 lb torque.
I wouldn't recommend the rwd version for winters though, even with snow tires you'll get stuck. The BRZ/ FRS are pretty nice too but not much power in them.
yeah theyre nice, what condition u think like 8-10k would get u (manual, RWD & AWD).
I've seen them, would probly try to get a turbo one. Only thing is I've heard they're dangerous or something because of snap oversteer or something like that? You know what I'm talking about? Is it really a big deal? I do like those cars alot.The toyota mr2! ive had 2 first gens both N/A and a turbo 95. very fun and reliable cars, you can push them hard and not worry because your in a toyota :]
man those cars are nice if im able to find either around me for a good price im definitely gona consider, although for the MR2 i'd probly try to get the SW20 version
Hey im 280zx89, they let me use my other profile again and deleted that one.man those cars are nice if im able to find either around me for a good price im definitely gona consider, although for the MR2 i'd probly try to get the SW20 version
any problems u needed to go through at 180k? i assume its probly somewhat reliable and i can probly get one around 90-130k miles. for the mr2 if u dont mind me asking whats the pricing and reliability like on the model you haveHey im 280zx89, they let me use my other profile again and deleted that one.
If you get an sw20:
-make sure you do a compression test
-if they will let you take the inlet and outlet off the turbo and wiggle the shaft and check for play, play is bad,
-TEST the clutch thoroughly !!!! I cant stress this enough. especially if you do your own repairs. the trans is not "easy" to do like my SI would be, barely any room. infact in 99% of most case its better to drop the entire drive train it self.
-do your research and make sure all the import hard to find body pieces are there, spoilers, lips, etc
- most importantly of all is the year... 91-94 (mk2a) and 95+ (mk2B) have BIG differences, the subframe and suspension on the mk2B is VERY upgraded by the factory andyoull have about 70% less chance of encountering 'snap over steer'
the sw20 mk2B is alittle pricey, I don't know what area you live in, but there are TONS of mr2 pages on FB that can offer more help than I since ive only had 1 mk2 lol.
and my si I actually go cheap, 180k miles and I payed 5.5k. not too bad for an 8th gen.
any problems u needed to go through at 180k? i assume its probly somewhat reliable and i can probly get one around 90-130k miles. for the mr2 if u dont mind me asking whats the pricing and reliability like on the model you have
& how much approx. did u put in to ur mr2 after u got it for 7.5? did u need to do anything to fix it upmk2b turbos? depends on the area. i live in georgia (u.s) and bought it in florida for 7.5k 2 years ago
as far as the honda goes? i had an a/c freon leak a few years ago but that was it lol
-edit @Young MC reliability on the mr2 is as expected from a toyota. BUTTTTT turbos always cause issues others havent had, bent valves, rod kock, crack cylinder walls, head gaskets.
best advise is if you get a turbo mr2, work on the suspension as it can always be better, replace bushing, LEAVE THE ENGINE STOCK and you'll cut your chances of any of the above issues from happening.