How to surf - My tutorial

moneybags90210 · Jun 5, 2008

Here is my first (quite extensive) guide for becoming part of the UE team:

Step 1: Getting the Right Board

You can buy many different types of boards when beggining to surf. You can buy a new or used board, or a longboard or shortboard. And you can buy one online or from a local surf shop.

Funboard
The best surfboard for beginners, funboards are usually between 7-8 feet long. They are longer and faster than shortboards and shorter and more maneuverable than longboards. The reason why funboards are recommended for beginners is because they stay afloaf better and help ease the transition to a longboard or shortboard.

Longboard
Longboards range from 8-14 feet. After the funboard, the longboard is probrobly best for beginners. Because of their length, they are faster and catch waves more easily. The only thing bad about surfing a longboard is that it is difficult to paddle because of how long it is.

Tip: To determine if a longboard is the correct height, make sure it is about 14 inches taller than you and at least 20 inches wide.

Shortboard
You can learn how to surf on a shortboard, although it is not the best idea. Shortboards aren't good for the balance thats needed to learn how to surf. And they are mostly used by good surfers who like quick movements and sharp turning.

Step 2: Buying Your Board

Where to buy a surfboard
The best way to find a surfboard is to ask someone who surfs. A friend who surfs might have an extra board, or they will know where to get a good deal. If you don't know anyone who surfs, you will have to visit one of your local surf shops. The most important thing to do while buying a surfboard is to personally inspect it, especially if you are buying a used board. That's why buying a surfboard over the internet isn't preferred, thought it can be ok.

Buying a used board
Expect to spend between $150-300 for a used surfboard. Unless you have lots of money to buy a new board at around $500, you should look into buying a used one. You can easily find several used boards that are in great shape for sale. Plus, you should buy new boards as you get better. There's no reason to spend hundreds of dollars on a board that you will eventually get rid of. And if you buy a used board and then realize that you don't like surfing, you won't loose as much money.
There are some things that you will want to check for in a used board:
Make sure the board is free of dents. Any dings and holes can be repaired, but there should be plenty of used boards that are free of dents.
Check the board for delamination. A surfboard has two main components, a foam core and the fiberglass shell. Delamination occurs when the two begin to separate. If there are bubbles in the fiberglass, or if the board is kind of yellow, these are signs of delamination and you shouldn't buy the board.
Check to see that all the original equipment, like fins and plugs (leash attachments), are on the board.

Other accessories
A beginning surfer should always wear a leash while surfing. A leash keeps your board from getting lost, and not floating into shore. You will most likely get a discount on a leash if you buy your surfboard at the same time.
More important than being attached to your board is making sure that your surfboard is properly waxed. The smooth fiberglass surface of your surfboard is too slippery to maintain traction while surfing. That's where the wax comes in. There are several types of wax and you will find that they all do the same thing. All you have to do is wax your board and you're good to go.

Step 3: Finding the Right Wetsuit
As your board gets wax and sand on it, its surface becomes pretty uncomfortable and rough. This is why surfers wear wetsuits or rash guards, even in warm waters. Mostly though, wetsuits are worn so that surfers can surf in cold water all year. Wetsuits trap water between the skin and the suit, allowing the water to warm up and keep the surfer warm. Because you will be moving in all different directions your agility and dexterity will be put to the test. In order to tell if the wetsuit you're trying on is right, follow these steps:

-Thickness. Wetsuits are made out of a synthetic rubber, neoprene, and come in different thicknesses based on how cold the water is.
If you will spend the majority of your surfing in water that is 85 degrees or warmer, you will want 2mm of thickness.
If you are surfing in 70-85 degree water, you will probrobly want 3mm of thickness.
If the water is 55-70 degrees (which will happen if you live in a cold water region or you plan on surfing all year), you should most likely get a 6mm.

-Fit. Buying a wetsuit should be the same as buying regular clothesâ€”make sure it fits, or you don't buy it. Like shoes, different brands of wetsuits fit differently. Make sure that the suit is snug, but doesn't restrict your how well you can move.

-Seams. The stitching connecting the neoprene is very important in keeping the water out. Each of the three types of stitching has its own pros and cons. Some of those factors are: stitch tightness, range of motion, skin irritation and price.
The most basic stitching is overlock and it is found on the lower-end suits. It is very durable, but is known to cause some skin irritation and let some water in.
The flatlock stitch is not as durable as the overlock, but it is much less irritable.
Blindstiching keeps the water out and allows more flexibility, but is not as durable as the other two types of stitching.
Now that you know the various types of wetsuits, you should know about how to buy one. You can find a basic, new wetsuit for $90-150 dollars. Unlike a surfboard, you will want to buy a brand new wetsuit. If you find out that you enjoy surfing you will end up getting a new board. However, your suit can last much longer and is much cheaper than a surfboard.
You will want to try the wetsuit on, so buying your first wetsuit online isn't advisable. However, you can research different wetsuits online to get an idea of what the market has to offer before you go into a store.

Rash guards
Unlike a wetsuit, rash guards exist only to protect your chest from getting irritated by the coarse sand and wax your board has on it. Rash guards are made out of either spandex, nylon or polyester and are used in warm waters where you won't need a wetsuit in order to keep warm. Like a wetsuit, it is best to actually try on a rash guard to make sure it fits properly. You can get an idea of the different types of rash guards and how much they cost online.

Step 4: At the Beach
Because this is your first time, it is recommended that you find a friend to go surfing with. Hopefully, you know someone that surfs. If not, make sure you're at a beach that has a lifeguard on duty. Now you are ready to head to the beach and get into the water. Because it is your first time out, you don't need to check the surf report to find out which beaches have the best surf. You will want to practice the pop-up, find out if you are natural footed or goofy footed and learn how to spot swells.

The pop-up

Tip:To find out which foot is your lead foot, or if you are regular or goofy footed, put on some socks and slide across a smooth surface. If you put your left foot forward you are regular footed. If you put your right foot forward, you are goofy footed. =P

You will spend most of your time in the water paddling and trying to catch a wave. Once you have caught a wave, you will have to transition from lying on your stomach to the upright position.
Before you enter the water, place your board on the sand and lie down stomach first. Make sure that your feet are touching the end of the board and that the nose of the board is level with the sand. If the nose of the surfboard is pointing into the sky, then move closer to the nose. If the nose is pointing into the sand, move your body toward the bottom.
Once you have centered yourself on the board and you are perfectly balanced, it's time to find where you place your hands. While lying down, place your hands on the edge of the surfboard (also known as the rails) parallel with your shoulders and cock your elbows back like you're about to do a push up.
Now it's time to pop-up. With your toes at the end of the board and your palms facing down on the rails, proceed to do a push up. When you reach the top of your push up, swing your feet underneath you and plant your lead foot on the center of the board so that you're in a crouched position.
Repeat this until the movement feels good.

Step 5: Getting Into the Water
Now that you know how to stand up on your surfboard, you will need to know how to correctly paddle through the oncoming waves and how to paddle with a wave before you pop-up.

Tip: Before you attempt to surf a real wave, try catching some whitewater just to get an idea of how the board reacts to the power of the water.

Paddling
Practice Paddling. Once in the water, climb onto your board and get into the same position that you were in when popping-up. You will want to use the crawl swimming stroke.
Make sure that your body is balanced on the board and continue to paddle away from the shore. If you are having trouble balancing while paddling, try spreading your legs a little bit.
Keep the nose of the board an inch or two above the water.
Now that you have the feel for paddling, you will have to try paddling directly into an oncoming wave. This might sound a bit scary, but the faster and harder you paddle through a wave the better your chances of getting through it.
When trying to get through the smaller waves/whitewater, use the "push-up" method. The push up method involves planting your hands palms facing down on the rails. As the wave approaches, slightly push up onto your knees and toes. Once you are halfway through the wave, assume the paddling position and continue on.
If you approach a wave that is about to break, you will have to go through it. As you approach the top of the wave, hold on to the rails and lower your chest and head to the board. Brace yourself and punch right through it.

Step 7: Catch Your First Wave
Now that you have paddled out through the breaking waves, you are ready to catch your first wave!
Once you are on the "outside," or past the break zone, you can sit on your board while you look for the sets (sets are a series of waves).
As soon as you see a set that looks good, you will want to turn around so that you and the board both face the shore.
When you see a swell approaching, get into paddle position.
Once you feel the swell underneath you, start paddling and get ready to pop-up.
When you feel the wave take hold of the board, use the pop-up technique and sweep your feet up and onto the board.
Hopefully you were able to get up on your first try. If not, shake it off and paddle back out there. Surfing will take time and patience, so stick with it and you'll be glad you did!